SkyPilot SkyExtender Dual Band
In August 2009, we received some SkyPilot SkyExtender DualBand devices from the City of Portland to evaluate for possible re-use. One of them was dismantled and an investigation ensued. Over the next few months, 11 more SkyExtenders were received from the City of Portland, for a total of 12. More recently, we've been working on getting access to a SkyPilot SkyGateway. A gateway device is required in order to try to use the stock SkyPilot firmware.
SkyExtender DualBand Main Body
This in the enclosure where all the smarts reside. It consists of a tapering cylinder approximately 24" tall, slightly over 12" in diameter at the base and about 9" in diameter at the top. The bottom is a heavy aluminum bezel with a weather-sealed cover for the cat5 entry and also exposing a serial port and two bulkhead mounted N-female connectors protruding downward. Most of the cylinder consists of a radome covering the sectorized mesh backhaul antenna array. For more detailed descriptions of this part, see below.
Mounting mast (two length variants)
- tiltable base, 4-3/4" wide, 5-1/4" long
- 1-1/4" outside diameter mast, with an overall height of either:
- circular top flange, ~4-1/8" diameter, with 9/32" holes in a 2-3/8" square pattern
Other Mounting Hardware
- Mounting brackets
- 4 x (S30400 ABP) 1" length (9/16") hex-head 3/8-16, attaching mounting bracket to mast base (with one lock washer each)
4 x (S30400 THE) 3/4" length (7/16") hex-head 1/4-20, attaching mast top flange to SkyPilot (with one lock washer each)
- 12 x 3/8-16 nuts (3 per rod, sometimes fewer)
- Threaded rods
- 4 x 12" length 3/8-16
- Washers (odd numbers, the count here is over approximately 11 skypilots)
- 42 x 7/8" OD
- 20 x 3/4" OD
- 3 x 5/8" OD
- lock 80 x 43/64" OD (probably two per threaded rod)
2.4 GHz omni-directional antennas (two length variants)
Two variants of the antennas were found, both N-male-terminated Comet 7.5 dBi omnis:
- with vertical symmetry, about 17" overall length, there were found on the 20" tall masts
- with 12-degree uptilt, SF245G+12X-S, about 24" overall length, found on the 6" tall masts
PowerOverEthernet enclosure with cat5
The PoE injectors enclosures, Bud ~6-5/8" x 4.75" x 2-1/8", mount onto a base flange of the mast with two bolts drilled through the middle of the large face and sealed with large washers and sealant. Cat5 and power cables enter though glands on the small edge face. The interior of the enclosure holds a "Mean Well" S-25-24 AC-DC converter, supplying +24V on the blue pair of the cat5 and Ground on the brown pair, made in Taiwan.
If one wishes to convert the injector from Street Light Power Tap to conventional wall AC input, the practical thing to do is to unscrew the terminals inside the enclosure and remove the Street Light tap intact. These are expensive to buy new and may have some resale value. Standard AC power cords can be cut off and wired into the now-empty screw terminals.
ANSI C136.10 Street Light Power Tap and cord
This is a connector for attaching to the standard street light coupling provided for daylight sensors. The power tap has three poles: line, neutral and load. When the sun goes down, the light sensor closes a switch and connects the line to the load. Other devices can connect directly to line and still pass the light sensor load pole on through. In this way, a light sensor can be removed, the tap placed on the street light, and the light sensor replaced on the tap and normal light sensor function maintained while simultaneously extracting power from the 110V AC. The coupling locks in place by twisting. A foam seal prevents water infiltration.
SkyExtender Main Body
DualBand Interior Disassembly
Disassembly of the main body proceeds as follows (provisional, from memory, pending confirmation):
- Loosen the hex nut retaining screws on the two N-female connectors.
- With the main body placed thin-end down, remove 8 phillips head screws around the edge of the radome.
- Gently lift the bezel and attached antenna array out of radome.
- Loosen two screws at the top holding a bracket over a square GPS patch antenna (has an odd dot of solder in the middle) and free the GPS antenna, then replace the bracket and screws for safe keeping.
- Remove screws holding the antenna array to the bezel. Various cables will prevent them coming far apart.
- Unplug the ribbon cable from the lower board attached to the bezel.
- While not damaging the cables by pulling excessive, carefully moving the antenna array successively aside, remove 3 screws from the upper board screwed to the bezel, the upper board can be pulled loose from three pin header blocks from the board immediately beneath it, allowing the 802.11a radio to be reached and the u.fl antenna connector to be gently disconnected.
- Disconnect the u.fl connector from the GPS unit on the lower board still attached to the bezel, and gently pull the thin coaxial cable through the body of the antenna and set the GPS antenna aside.
- Disconnect the short section of cat5 network cable between the lower board and the Peplink board still attached inside the antenna array.
- Remove remaining screws from a ring plate inside the bezel and from the lower board.
- Finish detaching the N-female connectors from the bezel. The antenna array should be free now.
- Hmm. When does the ribbon cable get pulled from the rf ferrite choke?
- If possible, carefully reach inside and disconnect the coaxial cables from the radio on the Peplink board.
- From the antenna array, remove three screws that hold the clear plastic bottom plate to the hex rods. This will allow the plate (with the ferrite choke) to be detached, but also for all the antenna edges and reflectors to come loose.
- Spend the next 5 minutes (if you are lucky or in good practice) trying to align all 8 reflector sections and 8 antenna edges simultanously while seating the clear plastic bottom plate in place on the hex rods and replacing the 3 screws. Don't be surprised if there is some cursing here.
- Remove 4 screws holding the Peplink board to the metal plate.
- Remove the Ubiquiti SR2 radio from the Peplink board.
All of the device we have received are from the defunct network abandoned by MetroFi. MetroFi left behind the devices without informing anyone of passwords necessary to access them for administration. According to a helpful person (username: salad) on the SkyPilot forums, the SkyPilot devices can be reset to factory default settings by logging in over the serial console with the password "!!!skypilotfactory!!!" or "!!!skypilotreset!!!" or something similar (when a working one is confirmed, please FIXME, thanks!).